The scarlet badis, also known as Dario dario, is a captivating small fish belonging to the Badidae family, native to the freshwater rivers and streams of India. Despite being a lesser-known member of the Perciformes order, the scarlet badis offers a unique addition to aquariums with its striking colors and engaging behavior.
In this article, you will discover how to successfully keep and care for scarlet badis, including tips on feeding, selecting compatible tank mates, and breeding techniques. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced aquarist, this guide will provide you with essential information to enhance your aquarium experience.
Contents
Habitat in the wild
The scarlet badis, scientifically known as Dario dario, is a captivating freshwater fish belonging to the Badidae family. This family comprises small fish native to South Asia, predominantly found in the slow-moving waters of streams, swamps, and rice paddies. Renowned for their vivid colors and intriguing behaviors, scarlet badis have become popular among aquarium hobbyists.
Native to the Indian subcontinent, the scarlet badis is commonly found in the shallow waters of India and Bangladesh. Specifically, they inhabit the Brahmaputra River basin in Assam and the southern regions of West Bengal. These fish thrive in small rivers that are about 1 meter deep, characterized by crystal-clear waters and sandy or gravelly bottoms. Preferring areas close to the shore, scarlet badis often swim among thick aquatic plants, where they find shelter and food.
In their natural habitat, scarlet badis favor low-light conditions and environments rich in hiding spots among dense vegetation and submerged roots. They inhabit waters that are slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH range of approximately 6.0 to 7.0. The temperature of their native waters typically ranges from 22°C to 28°C (72°F to 82°F). These conditions are essential for their well-being and should be replicated in an aquarium to ensure a healthy, thriving population.
Description
Size
The scarlet badis, or Dario dario, is a charming and diminutive fish that typically reaches a maximum size of about 1 inch (approximately 2.5 centimeters) when fully grown. Often categorized as a “nano fish” in the aquarium hobby, their petite size does not diminish their appeal.
Lifespan
In their natural habitat, these fish typically have a shorter lifespan, ranging from 1 to 2 years. However, with the right conditions in a well-maintained aquarium, some individuals can live up to 2 to 3 years.
Coloring
The scarlet badis (Dario dario) showcases a stunning array of colors, with its head and back exhibiting hues that range from rusty orange to ruby-red. Its sides are adorned with seven distinct stripes that continue onto the fins, interspersed with eight silvery-blue stripes that also extend along the fins. The abdominal fins display a striking bluish-white coloration, while all fins are accented with bright white edges, creating a visually captivating effect.
In contrast, female scarlet badis display a more subdued palette. They typically have a silvery-gray body with transparent fins, and larger females may exhibit several thin pale-orange stripes along their sides. This subtlety in coloration can make it challenging for aquarists, particularly beginners, to differentiate between males and females when purchasing fish from pet shops.
Since many fish sold are young, they often share similar color patterns and fin shapes. Additionally, males that fall lower in the social hierarchy may display a uniform gray coloration, further complicating identification. Understanding these differences in coloration is essential for aquarists looking to establish breeding pairs or create visually dynamic aquascapes.
The vibrant colors of male scarlet badis play a critical role during mating rituals, where they display their colors to attract females and assert dominance. Interestingly, the intensity of their coloration can change based on environmental conditions, including water quality and stress levels, providing insight into their health and well-being. Coloration can also indicate social hierarchy; dominant males tend to display more vibrant colors, while submissive individuals may appear duller.
Captive breeding has led to some variations in coloration and size, with selective breeding sometimes producing individuals with even more vibrant hues. Additionally, incorporating a variety of plants and hiding spots in their aquarium can enhance the color display of scarlet badis, as they feel more secure in a well-structured environment.
| Characteristic | Description |
|---|---|
| Scientific Name | Dario dario |
| Common Name | Scarlet Badis; badis fish; dario fish; scarlet fish |
| Family | Badidae |
| Native Range | India and Bangladesh |
| Maximum Size | Approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) |
| Lifespan | 1 to 2 years (in captivity) |
| Temperature Range | 22°C to 28°C (72°F to 82°F) |
| Water pH | 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) |
| Tank Size | At least 10 gallons (approximately 38 liters) |
| Tank Setup | Well-planted with hiding spots |
| Behavior | Peaceful, shy, and territorial |
| Diet | Carnivorous – small live and frozen foods |
| Compatibility | Peaceful community fish, avoid aggressive ones |
| Water Conditions | Clean, well-filtered, and regular water changes |
| Breeding | Complex courtship behaviors |
| Special Considerations | Sensitive to water quality and parameters |
Difficulties in keeping
Scarlet badis (Dario dario) can be quite demanding regarding tank conditions. Despite their small size, they can display aggression toward tank mates, especially if they feel threatened or crowded. This behavior makes it essential for aquarists to provide a suitable environment with ample hiding spots and plants to help reduce stress.
In terms of diet, scarlet badis are not very receptive to artificial foods. To successfully keep them in a tank, it is crucial to offer a varied diet consisting mainly of live food. Suitable options include small brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms. Providing live food not only meets their nutritional needs but also stimulates their natural hunting behaviors, contributing to their overall well-being.
This dwarf fish isn’t quite often seen in tanks for now, but due to its simple tastes and appealing appearance it has all chances to become quite popular soon.
Care and keeping in a tank
Tank size
It perfectly suits small sized tanks, so called ‘nano tanks’. This fish doesn’t need a spacious tank. For them a tank of 10 gallons (approximately 38 liters) capacity is enough, though it’s desirable to get at least 20 gallons capacity tank. It should be sickly planted and tank plants will create shelter for the fish. At such conditions dario will feel comfortable and stop getting scared of everything.
In a roomy tank you can keep a larger group of fish. Dario males as a rule control small territory and they won’t intersect with others in a big tank. A 20-gallon tank provides enough room for a small group of scarlet badis, as they are social fish and do better when kept in pairs or small groups. Keeping them in larger groups can help reduce aggression and improve their overall well-being. Additionally, a larger tank will provide more stable water conditions, which can be beneficial for these sensitive fish
Water parameters
Here are the recommended water parameters for keeping these fish:
- Temperature: Maintain a stable temperature between 22°C to 28°C (72°F to 82°F) to prevent stress and temperature-related issues.
- pH Level: Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH, ideally around 6.0 to 7.0. Sudden changes in pH can be harmful, so it’s important to monitor this closely.
- Hardness: Soft to moderately hard water is preferred, with a general hardness (GH) of 5-15 dGH.
- Ammonia and Nitrite: Both ammonia and nitrite levels should be maintained at 0 ppm (parts per million), as these substances are toxic to fish and should always be kept at non-detectable levels.
- Nitrate: Keep nitrate levels as low as possible, ideally below 20 ppm. Regular water changes can help manage nitrate concentrations effectively.
- Filtration: Efficient filtration is essential for maintaining water quality and removing excess waste. Scarlet badis prefer clean and well-filtered water.
- Water Movement: Since these fish are native to slow-moving waters, it is best to avoid strong currents that could cause stress.
Decor
When setting up the tank, be sure to leave open swimming spaces alongside areas with denser vegetation and hiding spots. This balance allows scarlet badis to exhibit their natural behaviors, such as foraging and exploring while also feeling secure in their environment.
Plants: Live plants are crucial in scarlet badis tanks. They provide essential hiding spots, resting places, and breeding sites. Consider incorporating a variety of plants, such as Java moss, Java fern, Anubias, and floating plants like Amazon frogbit. These plants not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of the aquarium but also improve water quality by absorbing excess nutrients.
Driftwood and Rocks: Including driftwood and smooth rocks can create additional hiding spots and mimic the natural structures found in their native habitat. Ensure that the rocks are free of sharp edges to prevent injury to the fish.
Substrate: A soft, fine-grain substrate is ideal for scarlet badis. Using sand or smooth gravel mimics their natural habitat and allows them to forage for food easily.
Shelters and Caves: Providing small caves or shelters made from tubes or coconut shells gives scarlet badis places to hide and feel secure. Males may use these shelters for courtship displays and territorial behaviors.
Low Light: Scarlet badis are accustomed to low-light environments in their natural habitats, so consider using low-intensity lighting in the tank. This can help reduce stress and promote their natural behaviors.
Leaf Litter: Adding dried Indian almond leaves or other types of leaf litter can simulate the leaf-strewn bottom of their native waters. The leaves release beneficial tannins that help create a more natural environment and may offer health benefits for the fish.
Diet
In the wild, scarlet badis (Dario dario) primarily feed on various insects and their larvae. However, in captivity, they can become quite discerning eaters. While they may occasionally nibble on small pellets as they fall into the water, they generally refuse to eat artificial foods. Instead, scarlet badis show a strong preference for live food options, such as daphnia, cyclops, brine shrimp, and small tubifex.
In addition to live food, some aquarists have had success with high-quality frozen foods that mimic their natural diet and provide essential nutrients. It is important to provide a varied diet to prevent health issues. Scarlet badis are prone to obesity and become more susceptible to various diseases when their diet lacks diversity. Relying solely on foods like bloodworms or tubifex can lead to nutritional deficiencies and long-term health problems. Therefore, incorporating a mix of live foods into their diet is essential for maintaining their health and vitality.
Offering small portions multiple times a day can mimic their natural feeding patterns and encourage healthy eating habits. Regularly observing the fish’s body condition can help aquarists adjust feeding practices to ensure their scarlet badis maintain a healthy weight. A balanced diet can also be crucial during the breeding season, as proper nutrition supports the health of both the adults and their offspring.
Tank mates
The scarlet badis (Dario dario) has a peaceful temperament, swims slowly, and is quite timid. These fish prefer to stay close to aquatic plants, primarily occupying the mid to bottom layers of the tank. This natural behavior makes it essential to create a well-planted environment that mimics their habitat, helping to reduce stress and promote their well-being.
Scarlet badis are not schooling fish. Adult males can become rivals, displaying aggressive behavior toward each other, especially in smaller tanks. Juveniles typically school together, providing safety in numbers, but as they mature, males develop territorial instincts and compete for space. Therefore, it is recommended to keep scarlet badis in pairs or in groups consisting of one male and two to three females. However, in a spacious tank with plenty of shelters and clearly defined territory boundaries, multiple males can coexist successfully. Observing the males during the initial introduction period is crucial, as it allows aquarists to identify any aggressive behaviors and make necessary adjustments to the environment.
When selecting tank mates for scarlet badis, it is crucial to consider their timid nature and slow swimming. These fish are easily outcompeted for food by more active schooling fish and may become stressed or starve if larger, more boisterous tank mates consume all the food. To ensure their well-being, it is often best to keep scarlet badis in a species-specific setup or alongside slower-moving, peaceful fish. Suitable companions might include small rasboras, certain tetras, or other gentle species that will not outcompete them for food.
To further support their health and reduce stress, providing plenty of plants and hiding spots is highly beneficial. Dense vegetation and structures can encourage natural behaviors, allowing scarlet badis to feel secure and less exposed. Creating multiple hiding spots using driftwood, rocks, or caves can give them places to retreat, especially during mating or territorial disputes. Additionally, rearranging decorations periodically can disrupt established territories among males, reducing aggression and promoting a more harmonious environment.
Regular monitoring of their interactions with tank mates is essential to ensure that the environment remains peaceful and harmonious. If any signs of stress or aggression are observed, adjustments such as increasing the number of hiding spots or re-evaluating tank mates may be necessary. By being attentive to their needs and behaviors, aquarists can create a thriving environment for their scarlet badis, where they can exhibit their natural behaviors and flourish in captivity.
Here are some suitable tank mates that can coexist peacefully with scarlet badis:
- Harlequin Rasboras (Trigonostigma heteromorpha)
- Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon innesi)
- Ember Tetras (Hyphessobrycon amandae)
- Glowlight Tetras (Hemigrammus erythrozonus)
- Black Neon Tetras (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)
- Cardinal Tetras (Paracheirodon axelrodi)
- Rummy Nose Tetras (Hemigrammus rhodostomus)
- Dwarf Gouramis (Trichogaster lalius or Trichogaster chuna)
- Sparkling Gouramis (Trichopsis pumila)
- Celestial Pearl Danios (Danio margaritatus)
- White Cloud Mountain Minnows (Tanichthys albonubes)
- Dwarf Rasboras (Boraras spp.)
- Endler’s Livebearers (Poecilia wingei)
- Guppies (Poecilia reticulata)
- Platies (Xiphophorus spp.)
- Corydoras Catfish (Corydoras spp. – pygmy cory, panda cory, adolfoi catfish)
- Otocinclus Catfish (Otocinclus spp.)
- Bristlenose Plecos (Ancistrus spp.)
Gender differences: male vs female
Here are several physical and behavioral characteristics that can help differentiate between the two sexes:
Male Scarlet Badis:
- Coloration: Males typically exhibit vibrant and intense colors, showcasing brighter red and blue hues on their bodies. These colors become even more pronounced during courtship and when displaying to potential mates.
- Fin Shape: The dorsal fin of males is usually larger and more elongated compared to females, often featuring more intense coloration that enhances their visual appeal during mating displays.
- Stripes and Patterns: Males may display additional stripes or markings, particularly when in breeding condition or courting females. These patterns can shift in intensity and visibility based on the male’s mood and environment.
- Behavior: Males are generally more territorial, engaging in courtship behaviors such as flaring their fins, showcasing their vibrant colors, and performing intricate, dance-like movements to attract females. These displays are critical for successful mating and establishing dominance.
Female Scarlet Badis:
- Coloration: In contrast, females tend to have more subdued colors, often displaying an olive or brownish hue with less intense red and blue highlights. This coloration helps them blend into their environment, providing some camouflage.
- Fin Shape: The dorsal fin of females is smaller and less elongated than that of males, which reflects their less aggressive nature and different role in the breeding process.
- Stripes and Patterns: Females usually have fewer stripes or markings, and any present are less pronounced compared to those of males. This subtlety aids in their role during spawning.
- Behavior: Females are typically less aggressive and less prone to territorial disputes. They may not engage in the same vibrant displays as males, but their behavior can shift during breeding periods, indicating readiness to spawn.
If you are interested in breeding scarlet badis, keeping a group together and observing their interactions can provide insights into their social dynamics. Males will exhibit courtship behaviors to entice females to spawn, showcasing their colorful displays and intricate movements. However, for aquarists focused on maintaining a peaceful community aquarium, it is generally recommended to keep scarlet badis in a single-species setup or with compatible tank mates, rather than emphasizing breeding. This approach helps to minimize aggression and ensures a harmonious environment for all inhabitants.
Breeding
If the scarlet badis is kept in a species tank there is no need to have a separate spawning tank. Put 1 male and 1-3 females for spawning. The fish lays eggs on tank plants, often inside java moss bunch (Taxiphyllum barbieri).
Though sometimes the couple prefers wide leaved floating plants, it can be, for example, Ceratopteris thalictroides. We recommend to give the fish a choice and provide it with both options.
During the spawning period the scarlet badis male coloring becomes brighter. Almost all its body and fins are bright red. The male all the time stays on its territory and attracts females that swim around.
It looks very spectacular: the male unfolds its fins and starts shaking in front of the female inviting her to its territory. If it doesn’t respond, the male attacks her and makes her run.
When finally the scarlet badis female is ready to lay eggs, it follows the male to its territory.
The couple gets inside the tank plants together, the male holds the female with its body (very similar to the way betta fish does it). Thus the male squeezes a portion of eggs from the female and fertilizes it at once.
They process of laying eggs occurs several times, till the female lays all the eggs. Usually, the fish lays about 80 eggs during one spawning.
Though, it is said that fish guards its eggs mass, still it is better to remove the adult fish from the spawning tank, to avoid eating the eggs. The eggs stage lasts 2-3 days depending on the water temperature. After this larvae hatches from the eggs and the offspring disappears in the tank plants for several days.
After they eat their yolk bags, it usually happens on the 5th day, the larvae turns into juveniles and start swimming and feeding on their own.
Juveniles are very small and not very active. Only in 9-10 days the offspring starts to swim more actively.
The main problem when badis badis breeding is to provide its juveniles with food. It is considered that the juveniles feed on microorganisms which they find among the tank plants.
As a rule the scarlet badis juveniles are fed with infusorian as a start food. When they grow up, they’ll be able to eat brine shrimp nauplii and then you won’t have to worry about them.